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Proud restaurateurs Patrick Smith and Jonathan Poole, the brains behind successful Salt House Tapas, have launched their second venture in Hanover Street Social, a modern brasserie with a traditional Parisian feel.
With Bistro Franc, The Hub and Salt House Tapas just a stone’s throw away, the intersection between Duke Street and Hanover Street is fast becoming the epicentre for hearty dining in the city centre.
While pondering what this vast, impressive space had housed previously, Patrick Smith greeted us and explained that many customers have also noted that the building seemed to have appeared from nowhere. Boasting a rich 200 year dock-side history, Grade II listed, it was re-built brick by brick before lying dormant for many years.
Its re-birth as a French bistro with an “urban, warehouse feel”, as Smith puts it, is a welcome addition for diners in Liverpool. Red leather seating offsets dark wood tables, on the far wall lies an eye-catching display silver trays while copper Tom Dixon ‘Blow Light’ fittings hover above your head, subtly evoking images of its shipping lineage.
Warmth exudes from the exposed brickwork, with candles on each table providing mood-lighting, and an undeniably romantic setting for visiting couples. Patrons of all ages could happily while away the evening at Hanover Street Social, as I discovered when visiting with two friends on a mid-week night. Social being the operative word, Smith hopes to attract families and businessmen alike, offering a superb set lunch menu (2 courses for only £8.95) along with tempting breakfasts for mid-week early morning meetings.
For what feels a fairly modest establishment, the cuisine is varied and far from run-of-the-mill. One particular thing struck me about Hanover Street Social’s menu – an absence of a description for each dish. The ingredients are allowed to simply speak for themselves, and the diner given the freedom to make up their own mind without a patronising narrative.
Fish dishes include a Seafood Platter, Rock Oysters or Deluxe Fish Pie with lobster and scallops. For meat lovers, a choice of mixed grill, steaks, burgers or roasted meats all sound more delicious than the last. Vegetarians are given a choice of two mains – Polenta with roquefort, rocket, roasted tomatoes and pine nuts (£9.50) or Pearl barley with roasted pumpkin, red pepper feta cheese and pomegranate (£8.50).
To start, we ordered Fresh Mussels steamed with white wine, garlic and cream (£5.50), Prawn Cocktail (£6.50) and Crab Cakes with a radish and fennel salad and piquillo pepper mayonnaise (£6.50). Three crab cake balls disappeared almost as quickly as they were served, while my generous and irresistably creamy portion of mussels was second only to the marvellous prawn cocktail which came topped with three succulent atlantic king prawns.
Impressed with the starters, we couldn’t wait to set to our main course. Turning our attention briefly to the well-stocked wine list, with all three of us drivers bound to one glass of wine apiece, we chose the house red, French Grenache, Syrah (or Shiraz) at £13.95 a bottle (£3.65 a glass.) Full-bodied with distinct dark berry tones and a hint of pepper, I confess it was nearly gulped entirely on its own before matching its rich berry flavours with my exquisite main of Slow roasted shoulder of lamb with sweet potato Ratatouille and jus (£15.00) Requesting it be served medium rather than pink, it was as if chef had read my mind when the browned juicy and tender meat was placed before me. My friends opted to try Duck a l’orange with fondant potatoes and green beans (£12.50) and the Mixed grilled seafood, aioli and french fries (£15.50) Each were exceedingly well-presented and, I’m assured, most pleasing to the tastebuds. We failed to order an extra side dish, and vegetables or extra fries would perhaps have been a welcome addition to feel content after just two courses.
However, for those planning to indulge in the Dessert selection, I would urge you to save room. Placing our orders, we were amused by the wonderfully retro Knickerbocker glory (£5.00) which came heaped with toasted almonds, mini shortbread biscuits, fresh fruit and chocolate brownie pieces. My Earl Grey crème brulee (£4.00) simply had to be ordered to satisfy my curiosity, and well satisfied it was! A mere hint of Earl Grey was surprisingly pleasant with the mind-blowingly indulgent vanilla cream beneath a thin layer of browned sugar. Last, but by no means least, was the baked vanilla and mascarpone cheesecake with fruit compote (£4.50), for which words cannot do justice to its richly dense and oh-so creamy texture as it was washed down with a large Cappuccino (£2.00).
With attentive waiting staff and a relaxed ambience, the evening at Hanover Street Social was delightful from start to finish. Having been a fan of the Bistro Qui? outlets for several years now, I can imagine this fine new addition to Liverpool’s French bistros directing a playful “En Garde!” towards neighbouring Bistro Franc, “There’s a new brasserie in town…”
8/10
Open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner from 7.30am – 10.30pm Mon – Fri, 10am – 12am Sat/Sun.
Book on line at www.hanoverstreetsocial.co.uk or call 0151 709 8784.